26 of June of 2015
Stefano Pilati juxtaposes the brand’s very own nature of sartorial leadership with a refreshing expression of masculine identity.
The plethora of fabrics is the undisputed protagonist of the SS16 collection: from the exclusive trans seasonal Double Century Cashmere, super fine Lanificio Zegna wools, silks, a range of cottons to luxurious Japanese textiles.
The attitude is relaxed and sportified but with a delicate elegant summery allure. An accurate balance of fluidity, transparency and lightness: all elements dear to womenswear newly translated this season, to create a new code for a stylish masculine and contemporary personality.
The contrasting volumes reveal unconventional ways of silhouettes: flowing trousers, classics but subtly detailed, evident or hidden, in their construction are paired with nonchalance either to oversized outerwear or elegantly tight fitted, single or double breasted jackets, studied for an innovative and extremely light way of tailoring; or with floating summer coats, multi pocketed gilets, bomber jackets and draped blousons, alongside shirts and overcoats that intersperse the vocabulary of men’s wardrobe icons.
Essential is also the wide range of accessories all made with eco sustainable metal-free leather, following the “mission” Zegna started last season introducing the Eco-leader campaign.
The colorful symphony of micro and macro Madras patterns play with shades of beautiful “non-whites”, as well as mid toned or dark toned looks framed by optical white and total black.
The blend of “new” and “classic”, perfectly embodied by the Broken Suit concept, is the intrinsic overall angle of Stefano Pilati’s design for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and wisely reflects Zegna’s heritage and DNA through a distinctive and innovative timeless aesthetic.
Michel Gaubert, music
Alexandre Moors, video
URBAN Production, event production
The perfect moment, when a breeze becomes wind and wind becomes energy, permeating the city. When the hint of challenge breeds anticipation and a thirst for adventure.
The right mix of hybrid sport urban attitude and sartorial “freestyle” forges a new sense of open air freedom reminiscent of kite surf and marine club house atmosphere.
Z ZEGNA’s rigorous commitment to performance encourages new fabrics development and intercontamination, while the structural yet deconstructed silhouettes with their flighty kite-inspired volumes and shapes, deliver the sensation of weightless freedom, where graphic “transparent” layerings give the perception of three dimensional depth.
Liberating in its versatility, the new collection beautifully plays with graphics woven into its fabrics and knits: club house stripes, crests and the iconic Z ZEGNA pentagon graphically interfuse taking on optical illusions in the summer wools, water repellent nylons, printed cottons, jerseys and the iconic Techmerino.
The angular attitude to color matches monochromatic black, white and blue with high-impact cutting insertions of pink, mandarin, royal and titanium metallics.
The marine club house influence extends into the accessories, unveiling super light technical nappa bags with water repellent finishing as well as a contemporary interpretation of classic chukka boots and topsiders presented in rubberized leather.
The Z ZEGNA SS16 collection, with its adventurous intensity and dynamic style attitude, inspires emotions and energy, while the metaphorical combination of wind, water and waves harmoniously collide with the “Wall Street” attitude to form a perfect conduit for the brand’s City-to-Surf state of mind.
“Détournement is the opposite of quotation” (G. Debord). It’s a kind of game that puts decontextualized fragments back into circulation – objects found by chance and torn away from their history, pre-existing entities that lose their original meaning. It is an act of taking and transposing, destroying and creating anew. Through a playful ability to intercept what exists and to reassemble it in an unprecedented frame of reference, each fragment acquires a vital new impulse. The result is a symphony of retrieved evidence where ancient meanings and emerging qualities cohabit – an eclectic polyphony in which living signs and worlds acquire new meanings and values.
Each ensemble of this collection is constructed through combinations and juxtapositions of memories projected against a new poetic horizon. Poetic in its germination of entirely fresh meanings. Shapes, embellishments, details and techniques give rise to shifts in perception. The recovery of fragments is not a re-proposition of the past as an inert fact. Rather, it’s the renewal of possibility for what was. It’s the reinvention of stored-up occasions. Memory is in fact a powerful instrument, capable of restoring to the past its sense of possibility (G. Agamben) and a new raison d’être.
The playful practice of situational détournement yields a displacement of the gaze. Through the re-appropriation of discursive and decontextualized fragments, it establishes a new language, a new idea of beauty that is not only aesthetic. Détournement is also, and above all, a political device. Its strength lies in the possibility of transgressing what already exists and offering glimpses of new possibilities of freedom and emancipation.